Target Sports

GALLERY RIFLE: TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

Created on 14th May 2009

Thinking about a new rifle? GWYN ROBERTS provides some tips on what to look for

FOR ANY newcomers to our sport who are considering buying, or having a new Gallery Rifle built up over the winter months, here are a few things that you may want to think about in preparation for the new season ahead. Each section starts by looking at the 10/22 type rifles used in the .22lr GRSB (Gallery Rifle Small Bore) then any points specific to the pistol calibre lever actions that we use in the GRCF (Gallery Rifle Centre Fire) matches are included.

What to consider first: overall weight

GRSB: Whether it's going to be a used rifle or one that's built up for you, you should have an idea of what overall weight is most suitable for you, as having one that is either too light, or too heavy (especially if it's all at the front end) will not allow you to perform at your best. Physical size and strength along with any medical conditions will obviously play a big part in this, as will the types and number of competitions you intend to shoot with it on any given day. Hoping to shoot a 1500, Bianchi, a Grand, a T&P2 and a couple of other matches back to back on the same day with a rifle that weighs the wrong side of 8 or 9lb or more would prove to be too much for most of us. Ideally, try to handle as many different rifles of a known weight as you can, to give you an idea of what feels the most ‘comfortable' for you. Even using a basic set of kitchen scales down at your club or range to weigh each one will give you a reasonable idea of what you should be looking for. This will then allow you to break it down roughly into component weights such as stock, action (and trigger unit), barrel and scope so that you can choose each of them accordingly. For example, if you wanted a lightweight rifle of around 5 to 6lb, trying to combine an Odyssey-type stock with a stainless steel 20" barrel will take you way over this figure before you even think about adding a receiver/bolt/trigger group or putting a scope on it. I've just had a new rifle built by Greg Goldsworthy from RFD (Rude Fat Dog) in Devon that weighs in at just less than 4¾lb, giving me a really lightweight rifle to shoot steel plate or three gun matches fitted with a red dot scope on it. Even when I fit a massive 30mm tubed 8-32x60 Nighteater scope on top it still weighs in at just less than 7lb which means I'll be able to shoot plenty of matches back-to-back with it, before getting too tired.

GRCF: Most people will settle on using a Marlin in either .357/38 or .44 (or even the .45 Long Colt) as they are easier to tune up than the other makes, allow a faster and more positive racking action, and are generally just easier to function. There are exceptions, though, and some people are just as happy using their Winchesters or Ubertis although most agree that they are not ideal for some of the faster shooting matches that we compete in. The choice of calibre is up to you but go out and try them first before deciding to follow the local ‘expert' advice. Reading one of the forums recently would have totally put me off buying the .44 version because I ‘wouldn't be able to handle the violent recoil or the extra weight.' Maybe I should sell the three .44s that I own and compete with, then? I only use light target loads and there is slightly more recoil as opposed to shooting a .357/38, and the reloading components do cost a little more too, which may be the deciding factor for some people. They do, however, make bigger holes in the target which has certainly made a difference over the years between being either ‘in' or ‘out' of the scoring ring, and they take down steel plates easily without having to stoke the load up. I also personally find the larger rounds easier to handle and load into the gate as well. There is certainly a weight difference between the Cowboy models and the rest of the Marlin line up as they do tend to be quite front end heavy. Otherwise the rest of the line up are all pretty much the same weight, so try out as many different barrel lengths as you can and make your own mind up!

Choosing the right stock: single sided or ambidextrous?

This refers mainly to the types available for the GRSB rifles as the lever action rifle stocks are all ambidextrous and pretty much all the same size and profile as standard. First of all you need to ask yourself what types of matches you intend to shoot with it, both now and in the future. If you only ever intend to shoot using your strong shoulder for support as in the Precision, Timed and Precision 1 and Multi Target matches or even just general plinking down the local range, then a normal right or left-handed stock will suffice. If you might like to try out some of the ‘action' events like the Bianchi, 1500, PP2, 3 gun or Steel type matches, then you are definitely going to need an ambidextrous stock. This type will allow you to shoot from either shoulder, as well as various other positions such as kneeling and sitting (or even prone in some three gunners) which are incorporated into many of the disciplines that we now shoot. Bear in mind when choosing a new stock that the weight of some of the fibreglass/composite/rubber stocks including the Bell & Carson Odyssey, Volquartsen VX or the Anschutz target style can easily weigh up to twice or three times as much as a similar laminate version due to the materials used in their construction. They are very well-made, though, and may prove ideal for shooters of a larger frame. Those of a smaller build would do better to avoid them, and go instead for something a little more manageable of the laminated variety. Your rifle builder should be able to give you the figures for the various components that they supply so make sure you ask first, before committing yourself to something that may ultimately prove unsuitable.

Unless you happen to be very lucky, some modifications will usually have to be made to get any stock to fit you properly. Sometimes it's as simple as adding an extended butt pad or it may mean getting out some sand paper or a power file and really going to town. Remember that the finish on most wood/laminate type stocks is usually varnish, lacquer or oil and can be returned to as good as new with a bit of time and effort should you need to modify it. I have always spent the time and effort making sure my stocks fit me, which in turn has given me improved results on the range. One thing to remember if ordering a new stock is to make sure it will fit your barrel i.e. a standard taper or .920" item. Leaving a new stock just as it is because it looks pretty rather than making it fit properly isn't the way to go!

Starting at the front: the forend

Before deciding on this point, you'll need to have spent some time down on the range finding out which ‘hold' suits you best. Small changes and experimentation by reaching further forwards or bringing your hand further back on the forend will give improved accuracy results. Likewise, rotating your wrist slightly, increasing or decreasing the exerted pressure at both ends of the stock, along with finger placement by the supporting hand will also help contribute to a more stable hold, so take the time to work out what works best for you. Ultimately, you must make sure that the forend allows you to attain your optimal reach and grip, while shooting from the standing off-hand position. If too short, this will force you to move your hand in closer towards your body. This will be both uncomfortable and, more importantly, less stable than with a stock that fits your shooting stance naturally. Lately I have seen a number of shooters on the line shooting rifles with forends that are way too short, forcing them to hold onto the barrel for a more convenient grip. Altering the barrel harmonics by holding the barrel will not produce good results on the target, and I think it's fair to say that their stocks are definitely not best suited to them.

This then brings us onto the next important point, being the profile of the forend. A shape that fits naturally in the palm of the hand will fit better, and is going to need less muscle retention and effort to keep it there which will in turn help to provide a steadier hold. Likewise, staying in safe contact with the stock during position changes and reloads should also prove to be a lot smoother and easier, and using a bit of skateboard tape may also help your grip. You will probably find that you actually grip the forend at different points when shooting from different positions. Increasing or decreasing the width or shape at the point of contact on your stock to provide a more stable platform or hold, or simply adding a non slip surface like skateboard tape may well prove beneficial for some shooters. Flattening the area towards the rear or the forend may provide you with a more stable hold when shooting from the kneeling or sitting position as the rifle tends to just ‘rest' on your palm or in the ‘v' groove of your arm.

I have tried and tested many stocks, both old and new, and I consider some of the latest rather fancy types are questionable regarding their use in gallery rifle type competitions. Anything that is too short, narrow, has fairly sharp edges or a very angular profile that makes it hard for the hand to form around naturally may not work in your favour, however fancy it looks. So be warned!

Whichever type you decide on, a critical point to ensure is that the barrel is fully floating over its entire length, not making any contact against the stock. Running a single sheet of thin piece of paper along the gap for testing is not sufficient: and several sheets should be used, as wood/laminate types can expand slightly if subjected to wet or damp conditions.