Target Sports

SNIPER RIFLE: 6.5MM X 55 SWEDISH MAUSER M/41: SUPER TROOPER

Created on 30th June 2009

In his concluding article on the Swedish Mauser sniper rifle, NIGEL GREENAWAY explains how to zero the scopes and provides some handloading advice

ALL THREE scopes used on the Swedish Mauser had the same method of zeroing for windage. The first step is to remove the scope with the upper mount from the rifle. On the underneath of the mount is a large screw which secures the front ring and acts as a pivot for the windage adjustments. Loosen this screw a quarter turn (there is no reason to remove it), then replace the scope and mount on the rifle. To adjust for windage, fire a two-shot group at short range - about 50yd. A slight adjustment to either of the screws on the left and right sides of the rear of the mount will have a dramatic effect at the target. If your group is left, loosen the right screw about 1/4 turn, and gently snug the left screw. Shoot again and keep adjusting until you are centred left/right. Then move out to longer range. As you move out, it will take smaller adjustments to move your point of impact the same amount. Keep fiddling until you are centred at 300yd. Once you are happy with the windage, remove the mount from the rifle, re-tighten the front ring main screw, and hopefully you will never have to touch it again! You may gather from this that it might be best to develop your accuracy loads before you settle on your final zero.

A correctly-paired scope and rifle should only require minor elevation adjustment if your ammunition is shooting to military velocities. Preferably shoot at 100m, and shoot a three-round group. Adjust the
elevation dial, and shoot groups until your group is on the same elevation as your aiming point (ignoring what the elevation reading is). When you are satisfied with the zero, tighten the thumb-locking screw. Then loosen (but do not remove) the two small screws on the plate at the top of the elevation knob. It will now be possible to rotate the outer range dial (not the knob), until the number lines up at whatever range you are shooting. Hold the range dial in this position while you re-tighten the two small screws. If you plan to do most of your shooting at 200yd, then check your zero at this range - it might not exactly match the number 2 on the elevation dial, but that doesn't matter. If your Ajack scope reaches the stop point during elevation zeroing (where you can't turn the dial any further), there is a way round this problem. Equally, the elevation zeroing for the m/42 is a bit more complicated, but space does not allow me to explain it all - contact me via the editor (edit@blazepublishing.co.uk) if necessary, and I'll explain all.

Adjusting the elevation of the m/42 scope is completely different! The scope has a large screw on the brass elevation ring, which needs to be removed after you have set the range to approximately 680m. A hole in the scope body should be visible - you might have to adjust the scope elevation ring so the holes are aligned. Shine a bright light into the hole, and you will notice a tiny setscrew on the opposite side of the scope body. Using a 2mm jeweller's screwdriver, you should be able to manually adjust elevation. Be careful not to damage the cross hairs and other delicate parts when you insert the screwdriver into the scope body. The problem with this method is that you can only get at this internal screw when the scope is off the rifle - you have to keep making small adjustments, remounting the scope, test-firing with a couple of shots, and so on. I forget which direction you turn the screw, but you will see the reticle moving up or down. Down will raise your elevation, and up will lower your elevation. The Gunboards forums are worth a visit, because they have some very knowledgeable collectors - the URL for the Swedish Military Firearms forum is http://forums.gunboards.com, then click on Swedish Military Firearms Forums.

Reloading for the 6.5mm x 55

There are many manufacturers of brass and bullets for reloading, but when it comes to this calibre there are none better than Lapua (some would say there is no better manufacturer for any calibre). I use Lapua brass, and the Lapua Scenar 139gn HPBT bullet. The brass requires virtually no preparation and, because it is a popular calibre, is very good value for money. The same applies to the bullets, and for those that wish to argue the point I will simply say that the ballistic coefficient for the Lapua round is .615. There is nothing wrong with Sierra bullets, but the 6.5mm 140gn bullet has a BC of .526 and the 142gn has a BC of .580. To put these figures into perspective, the Sierra .308 155gn Palma Match bullet, designed for 1,000yd performance, has a BC of .450. Now you know why the 6.5mm x 55 has such a great reputation for long-range accuracy.

The powder I use is 46gn of Reloder 22*, which in my rifle gives 2,640fps - almost identical to the service load, but the modern bullet shoots flatter. I found this out when shooting in the British Army's 2004 Sniping Symposium. I was tasked with demonstrating some of my sniper rifles, and then letting people have a go. The Dutch KCT Special Forces Team (Korps Commando Troepen - organised along the same lines as our SAS) were keen to have a go, and were soon achieving head shots at 600m with my m/41B. We went back to 900m where I figured that moving the elevation dial to 800m (the highest setting) would at least get me on to the four-foot backer with my flatter shooting bullets. I had to aim off by about 7ft but found a patch of grass on the butts that was shoulder height to the Fig.11 target. My Dutch KCT colleagues next door were using Accuracy International sniper rifles in .300 Winchester Magnum. My first shot clipped the shoulder, and the second adjusted shot hit the chest of the Fig.11 - about 2" lower than the first shot. I gleefully pointed out to my Dutch friends, who had not yet hit the four-foot backer, that my rifle was built in 1941. The same rifle scored a 75.9ex-75 in the 900yd Hesketh Prichard Sniper competition at the 2005 Trafalgar meeting. It regularly shoots possibles at 600yd, and will shoot under ¾" at 100yd. If you can find one of these fine rifles, grab it quickly!

*All the usual reloading caveats apply as I have found this to be a safe load in my rifle but readers should start at least 10% below this load, especially if using different brass or bullets.

SNIPER RIFLE: 6.5MM X 55 SWEDISH MAUSER M/41: SUPER TROOPER

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SNIPER RIFLE: 6.5MM X 55 SWEDISH MAUSER M/41: SUPER TROOPER

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